Food Tour of Koukaki, Athens
If you want to taste of life in a true Athenian neighbourhood, then Koukaki, tucked under the shadow of the Acropolis is where you can find a nice mix of historic bakeries cafes and bars, some greenery and also an intriguing blend of architectural styles. If you are looking to get a feel of Athens’s dining scene but have limited time then this is food tour of Koukaki will be perfect for you. Here is a lowdown of the places we ate and visited.
PS: Checkout my earlier guide to Athens and also my guide to where to eat in Thessaloniki if you are planning a trip there soon.
1. Pandora
Lempesi 1, Athina 11742
Our virtual food tour starts at one of the oldest bakeries in Koukaki, Pandora which is tucked away on a side street near the Acropolis. Their main claim to fame are their heavenly pies which are an essential part of the Greek and Athenian diet and something that can be enjoyed at all times- breakfast, lunch or dinner. The pies here are made with homemade phyllo pastry and prepared on the premises daily. There is a range of pies to try with interesting filling from pumpkin to cheese and pasta.
During the tour we tried the two classic versions- spinach and cheese and chicken. Both were fantastic, the phyllo crumbly and delicious as well as the fillings. Perfect start.
2. Tavern Thomas
Dimitrakopoulou 18, Athina 11742
Our next stop is Tavern Thomas , a restaurant which is a modern take on the post-war tavern of Athens from the 1950s and beyond, aiming to revive the flavors that Athens had at the time. Dishes here range from homemade bread with olives to lamb with greens, mashed potatoes, greens, pies, Greek salad, braised meats and fish.
Led by their passionate head chef Dimitris Panayiotou, we were treated to some olive oil tasting with their homebaked sourdough bread which was delicious. We then were served some typical mezes, which were fava bean puree and also zucchini balls. Both were fab,
We washed it all down with an excellent local white wine, Malagousia. All the items were from the nearby region of Peloponnese where the chef’s roots are. Overall, a very pleasant and nice experience.
3. Pantopolion
Dimitrakopoulou 34, Athina 11742
For our next stop, Theodore takes us to a popular local delicatessen with a twist : Pantopolion not only offers authentic Greek food specialities but serves visitors a wide variety of Greek beverages, from tsipouro, tsikoudia to wine accompanied by cold cuts of meat plus cheeses.
For our ‘third’ course of the tour, owners Giannis and Stavros served up a tasting platter of Graveira cheese from Crete , cold cuts of meats-pastrami and salami, olives accompanied by tsipouro and the famous Mastiha- a liquer made from the Mastiha resin of a tree which grows only on the island of Chios. Loved all the items, especially the salty mature Graveira cheese.
4. Dyo Dekares Oka
Anastasiou Zinni 29, Athina 117 41
Our last stop was a sit-down dinner of home-cooked Greek classics at one of the coziest tavernas in Athens. If you want to visit a typical Athenian tavern, this is the place, with guitars and snapshots of Greek music on the walls. Run by three brothers, the tavern feels more like a gathering of friends and family and you are being welcomed into their home. The brothers have kept alive their family recipes and culinary traditions so this as Athenian as it gets. We are treated to a delicious homemade moussaka, eggplant roasted in the oven with feta, marinated chickpeas and tzatziki.
‘If you want to see what Athens was like in the 50’s , this street is time-capsule of that time.’
Finish off with a walk through one of the most beautiful streets in Athens- Tsami Karatasou. You will find some of the finest example of neoclassical architecture on this street, wedged between the 70s apartment buildings and the odd few abandoned mansions with barred doors.
