Cheap eats guide to Lisbon
Paris. London. Rome. Eat your heart out. Lisbon, for me is one of the world’s best food cities. There are a few better travel experiences in life than wondering aimlessly through Mouraria on a lazy afternoon, cold Super Bock beer in hand, catching the melancholy strains of the fado and also the smell of grilled sardines at every twist and corner. Walking through the city’s many winding travessas , there is always something good to eat and always a good glass of wine or a cold beer. You will never go hungry in this city, that is a promise. This is a city to fall in love with, again and again, thanks in no small part to the incredible and accessible gastronomy scene here. I present to you some of the best cheap eats in Lisbon.
1) Enjoy a Pastel de Nata at Antiga Confeitaria de Belém
As the city of 7 hills, walking up and down the city’s narrow travessas requires a lot of energy. To refuel I often stop at one the city’s many Pasterlarias , enjoying the guilty sweet pleasures that Lisboetas take most pride in : the famous Pasteis de Nata: a crispy, cinnamon flavoured warm custard tart which is customarily washed down with a strong, powerful espresso aka bica. To find the best Pasteis de Nata I travel a few kilometres west of Lisbon to the historic suburb of Belem. It is from here that Vasco de Gama set sail to the new world. It also here that the historic Antiga Confeitaria de Belém since 1837 has been making the Pastéis de Belém, following an ancient recipe from the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. Flaky on the outside, soft on the inside, lightly dusted with cinnamon- this is a true taste of Lisbon and Portugal in your mouth.
Top Tip: Come very early to avoid the crowds. Plus wash down your Pasteis de Belem with a bica ( espresso)
Address: Rua de Belém 84-92 Lisboa, Portugal.
2) Coffee from Fabrica Coffee Roasters
I never associated Portugal with great coffee so the coffee scene came to me as a huge surprise. Literally any cafe you walk into, you are guaranteed a good cup of coffee. If you’re a fan of fine gourmet coffee then definitely consider paying a visit to Fabrica Coffee Roasters. This independent coffee company started out in 2015 and from the growing of coffee cherries on farms, to their harvesting, roasting and brewing of the coffee-they really care about each cup of coffee they make in store. Visitors can choose from Ethiopian, Guatemalan, Colombian, Brazilian and a number of varieties of coffee.
Address: R. das Portas de Santo Antao 136, 1150-265, Lisboa, Portugal.
3) Favas with Chorizo at O Beco
Be prepared to scrape your plate clean at O Beco. Particularly when it comes to their favas with flavourful chorizo. The place located in Alfama is family-run , small but the food is plentiful, the people are friendly and the food is delicious. What more could you want? You will find a host of traditional Portuguese dishes served up here but my favourite is their fava beans.
Address: Beco do Espírito Santo 9, 110
4) Bifana at Café Beira Gare
Just steps away from Rossio is one of Lisbon’s most delightful little eateries- Café Beira Gare. You know the food is good because of the high percentage of locals that grace the establishment. The interior reminds me a little of an American diner and it’s a little cramped but the food is good. The Bifana is a thing of sheer joy. Never has a pork steak, packed with garlic goodness and placed in a long bread roll tasted better. Wash down with a cold cerveja. The soups here are delicious and nourishing too. Soup, bifana and a beer shouldn’t cost you more than €5.
Address: Praça Dom João da Câmara 4, 1200-016, Lisboa, Portugal.
5) Best Chocolate Cake in the World? Landeau Chocolate
If you are a chocolate enthusiast like me, then look no further than the chocolate institution of Lisbon that is Landeau Chocolate. The cake is the most decadent and chocolatey morsel With three glorious locations across Lisbon, you really can’t stumbling up against it, can you?
Address: Rua das Flores 70, 1200-014 Lisboa, Portugal.
6) Sardines in a Spicy Tomato Sauce at Sol e Pesca
Take this for novelty. A former tackle shop serving dozens of types of canned fish to be downed with chilled beer? Yes, Sol e Pesca has it all and much more. The sardines in spicy tomato sauce are my favourite.
Address: R. Nova do Carvalho 44, 1200-014 Lisboa, Portugal.
7) O Carteiro
8) Tascardoso
“As a restauranteur myself I have to keep up with what’s happening but all in all I find myself preferring the classics. For a low-key, back alley experience go to Zé da Mouraria which has a daily lunch menu that will warm your soul and make you question your entire existence. Book ahead or go early to avoid a long wait. For a more high-end experience with top Portuguese produce and earth-shattering wines I would recommend Coelho da Rocha in Campo de Ourique. It is a brilliant experience and the staff is extremely caring. The two brothers who run the business started off as waiters at their other restaurant Magano, possibly the best Alentejo restaurant in Lisboa, and bought the place from their former boss. They have done it all, seen it all and are, on a personal level, a true inspiration.”
Duarte D’Eça Leal, The Independent Collective
Where to drink in Lisbon
9. Fox Trot
The Portuguese are quite different from the rest of the continent when it comes to drinking. There’s drinking at meals, there’s drinking at the beach and there’s drinking to party. They don’t do after work sessions that well and they don’t usually plan random drinks without a purpose (eating or partying or both). However there is one bar that breaks the cycle and an exception to the norm is Fox Trot. Another Lisbon Cinderella story, the owner, Mr. Joaquim, bought the place from the former boss after some 20 years bartending, and it is one of the best places in town for cocktails and a chat. There’s a much sought-after pool table and a lovely beer garden.
10. Red Frog Speakeasy
No cheap but if you are looking for the best cocktail bar in Lisbon head to the Red Frog Speakeasy located on the most stylish avenue of Lisbon, ‘Avenida da Liberdade.’ Reminiscent of a 1920s New York style prohibition bar, this hidden speakeasy sits behind a closed door on the avenue with no signage at the entrance and just a small bell which you have to ring to enter . I would have never found this without the expert guidance of Miguel Santos, owner of one of Lisbon’s most popular hostels, Lisbon Central Hostel. The drinks are little pricey but this is a cool experience and the cocktails are very nice.
11. Where to find the best wine in Lisbon on a budget? Try ViniPortugal
If you a wine lover and keen on sampling the amazing diversity of Portuguese wines, pay a visit to ViniPortugal in the ancient Commercial Square of Praça do Comércio. The wines here are great quality and are a very decent price. With a minimum of 3€ you have the possibility to taste 6 different wines.
12) Pinot Noir at Wine Not?
Another good option for wine lovers is Wine Not? Run by the same owner as Lost Inn Hostel Lisbon, this wine bar is the perfect place to have that pre-dinner snack and glass of wine. I recommend their Pinot Noir with a side of bread dipped into their delicious olive tapenade.
Address: R. Ivens 45, 1200-226 Lisboa, Portugal.
13) Ginjinha at Ginjinha Sem Rival
If you want a taste of the charm of old-world Portugal, you cannot leave Lisbon without a drink of ginjinha at Ginjinha Sem Rival. A small shop with unassuming glass windows, bordered with green frames, this is your passport to ginjinha heaven. Everyone flocks to the more popular A Ginjinha but I prefer coming here, even if the proprietor is slightly on the grumpy side. Every drop of this sweet cherry liqueur will settle in your throat before leaving you a warm fuzzy feeling inside. It costs €1.50 for a shot and if the cherry flavour is not your preferred tipple, there are other flavours to try as well.
Address: R. Portas de Santo Antão 7, 1150-268, Lisboa, Portugal.
More Lisbon resources
Checkout my earlier guide to the best budget places to stay in Lisbon, a guide to the best free things to do in Lisbon and also let me take you on my favorite walk in Lisbon
