Cheap eats guide to Edinburgh , from £2.95
Where to eat, drink and drink in Edinburgh without spending a fortune
Edinburgh is one of my favourite cities in Europe ( I lived here for 8 years so I am slightly biased) and also has an incredibly diverse food and affordable food scene. From haggis pakoras to delicious gelato, from 16th-century pubs with a pint of Deuchars to Edinburgh’s finest cheesemonger, this food guide covers all the places I keep going back to every time I visit Edinburgh.
Breakfast places in Edinburgh
1. Best Western Bruntsfield Hotel
Address: 69-74 Bruntsfield Place, Edinburgh EH10 4HH
A solid start to the day. Guests can help themselves to the continental buffet (cereals, fruit, juices, pastries) or order a freshly cooked full Scottish breakfast or one of five different omelettes. I went for the full works: beans, fried tomatoes, haggis, black pudding, sausage, potato scones and scrambled eggs. Not something I’d eat every day, but absolutely delicious. If you’re visiting Scotland for the first time, a full Scottish breakfast is non-negotiable.
2. Holyrood 9A
Address: 9A Holyrood Road, Edinburgh EH8 8AE
My favourite spot for a Scottish breakfast in the city. Holyrood 9A is a warm, dark-wood pub at the beginning of Holyrood Road, just off the Royal Mile. The breakfast is outstanding, the burger menu is excellent (over 20 varieties, starts from ( ç11.95 ), and they have more than 50 beers from around the world on tap. If you’re coming for breakfast, the haggis-based options ( £10.50 ) are the ones to go for.
3. The Edinburgh Larder
Address: 15 Blackfriars Street, Edinburgh EH1 1NB
Old Town’s best-kept secret and my go-to for the best bacon sandwich in Edinburgh. The Larder has a fierce commitment to quality, local ingredients and honest cooking. The smoked streaky bacon from Ramsay of Carluke, winner of a Gold Taste Award, served in a fresh roll is sublime at £5.75 and their full Scottish breakfast is £14.95. The prices are not cheap but the quality makes every penny worth it.
Tip: Book ahead. The Larder fills up fast, especially on weekends.
4. MUMS Great Comfort Food
Address: 4A Forrest Road, Edinburgh EH1 2QN
Formerly called Monster Mash, MUMS is Edinburgh comfort food at its finest. Their epic breakfast of three types of sausage with mash is the thing to order: lamb and mint, herby pork and apple, all sitting on a bed of horseradish mash and smothered in a tomato and thyme gravy (gluten free). At around £14, it is hearty, filling and exactly what you need on a cold Edinburgh morning. This will keep you going for hours. They also a bacon rolls for £2.95.
Lunch and Dinner
5. Ting Thai Caravan
Address: 8-9 Teviot Place, Edinburgh EH1 2QZ
Always packed with students from Edinburgh University, and for good reason. Ting Thai is one of the best Thai restaurants I’ve eaten in outside of Thailand itself. There are no reservations, the queues can be long, but it is always worth the wait. I had the Massaman Curry for £9.80, which was rich, fragrant and great value. The whole place has an electric, canteen-style energy that makes the food taste even better.
Tip: Arrive early, especially at lunch. No bookings, no exceptions.
6. Beirut
Excellent value, authentic Lebanese food in a relaxed setting just off the Edinburgh University campus. The Shish Tawouk Wrap (charcoal-grilled marinated chicken in a wrap and garlic sauce) at £14.95 is superb, and the Moussaka Stew for £18.95 is deeply comforting. The mezze from £9.95 each are worth ordering a few to share: the hummus, baba ganoush and grilled halloumi are all excellent. Best of all, it is BYOB, so pop into the nearby Tesco, grab a bottle of wine and eat well for not very much at all. The staff are genuinely warm and helpful.
7. The Pakora Bar
Address: 111 Holyrood Road, Edinburgh EH8 8AU, United Kingdom
Discovered through my friend Abhishek, this place is run by a Punjabi family and everything is made fresh on the premises. The star of the show is the signature haggis pakora, which is exactly as unexpected and exactly as good as it sounds. I also sampled their home-style Punjabi chicken curry (warning: it can be spicy) washed down with a super sweet mango lassi. With lassi, pakoras and curry, the whole thing came to under £10, which is a bargain in any part of Edinburgh.
Pubs and Drinks in Edinburgh
8. The World’s End
Address: 2-8 High Street (Royal Mile), Edinburgh EH1 1TB
Walk down the Royal Mile until you hit the crossing where St Mary’s Street meets the High Street, and you’ll find The World’s End on the corner. This pub marks the exact spot where Edinburgh’s ancient city boundary once stood. Look down at the brass cobbles set into the road outside and you’re standing where the city gates used to be. Beyond this point, as far as the old residents of Edinburgh were concerned, the world ended. Inside, the pub serves excellent fish and chips and some of the best draft ales in the city. Order a pint of Deuchars IPA, the local ale of choice, and enjoy.
Tip: Look for the brass cobbles set into the cobblestones outside. They mark the exact location of the old city gate.
9. Canny Man’s Pub
Address: 239 Morningside Road, Edinburgh EH10 4QU
An Edinburgh institution since 1871 and one of the most eccentric pubs you’ll ever set foot in. Canny Man’s is a maze of nooks stuffed with decades of collected curiosities: moose heads, muskets, sheet music, stuffed animals, foreign banknotes above the bar. It serves what I think is the best Bloody Mary in Scotland and a selection of over 250 malt whiskies. There’s also Salmanazars (nine-litre bottles) of champagne available, if you’re feeling extravagant. It’s worth the bus ride out to Morningside. You’ll know immediately what I mean the moment you walk in.
Smoothies, Coffee and Snacks
10. Hula Juice Bar
Address: 103-105 West Bow, Edinburgh EH1 2JP
Hula sits at the bottom of West Bow, right at the start of the prettiest street in Edinburgh: Victoria Street. Come here for the best smoothies in the city, delicious soups and excellent coffee. My favourite smoothie is the Sunshine in a Cup (peach, mango and orange) which is exactly as cheerful as it sounds. There is also free wifi and a genuinely sunny atmosphere whatever the weather outside.
Cheese and Gelato
11. IJ Mellis Cheesemonger
Address: Stockbridge: 6 Bakers Place, Edinburgh EH3 6SY | Morningside: 330 Morningside Road, Edinburgh EH10 4QJ
Heaven for any cheese lover. Wander up Circus Lane in Stockbridge and you’ll find the Stockbridge outpost of Edinburgh’s finest cheesemonger. The range spans Europe: Roquefort, Comte, Manchego, Gorgonzola, Prima Donna, cheddar, Lanark Blue and much more. The staff are super friendly and will happily let you taste before you buy, which means you could easily spend a very happy and very cheese-filled hour in here. Before you leave Scotland, try the cheddar from the Isle of Mull. It is extraordinary. At most decent Edinburgh restaurants you can also order a cheeseboard at the end of a meal, served with oatmeal biscuits.
12. Mary’s Milk Bar
Address: 19 Grassmarket, Edinburgh EH1 2HS
The best gelato in Edinburgh, hands down. Hop on the bus to the west end of the Grassmarket for panoramic views of the Castle (especially beautiful after dark when the floodlights are on) and a scoop from Mary’s. The flavours change every day, made fresh each morning by Mary herself, but if you’re lucky enough to find the smoky chilli chocolate or the pistachio, order immediately. Expect a queue. It’s worth it.
Whisky tasting in Edinburgh
13. The Scotch Whisky Experience
Address: 354 Castlehill, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh EH1 2NE
If you’re on a short visit to Scotland and don’t have time to reach one of the distilleries, the Scotch Whisky Experience at the top of the Royal Mile is the next best thing. The tour takes you on a journey through the whisky-making process via a fun barrel ride, with an expert guide explaining the different regional styles using spectacular 180-degree immersive imagery. At the end, guests choose a dram to taste in the Diageo Claive Vidiz Whisky Collection, one of the acknowledged wonders of the whisky world, which holds 3,384 bottles and is the largest collection on the planet. The crystal tasting glass is yours to keep.
Silver Tour: £25 adults | Gold Tour: £39.75 adults
